Saturday, July 18, 2009

Terengganu Cuisine

With its overwhelming Malay majority, the cuisine of Terengganu on Malaysia's northeast coast does not have as much Chinese or Indian influence as some other states. There is however a noticeable influence from nearby Thailand, and in this state strongly influenced by Islamic culture, there are discernable Arabic tinges to the food as well.

Rice and fish are the staples on which this cuisine is built, and if you don't like either of those things you'll struggle a little in Terengganu. With that in mind, I relented on my usual vegetarian regimen - to a certain extent anyway. Forgive me, poor chickens and little fishies.


Keropok Lekor – you can’t avoid this stuff, it is absolutely everywhere in Kuala Terengganu; it is made from fish and sago pounded into a paste and formed into a sausage shape. Go to the markets and you’ll see the uncooked varieties, which you may mistake for the penis of some poor creature. They don’t look particularly appetizing. When boiled and/or fried, the keropok lekor turns into a kind of chewy, fishy sausage; not bad at all, actually, if a little too greasy. Served with chili sauce on the side, this is by far and away the most popular local snack food. On one stretch of the highway leading into KT, every second shop was a kerepok lekor vendor. They can be found elsewhere in Malaysia but in Terengganu it is an obsession. The term keropok (krupuk in Indonesian) usually refers to crispy thin-sliced discs (think Chinese prawn crackers or Indian papadams for a point of reference), and you can get these here as well; they are called keropok lekor keping.

Nasi Goreng Kerabu – fried rice with a variety of herbs and vegetables stirred into it. I detected finely chopped snake bean, Kaffir lime leaves, chopped lemon grass, Chinese celery leaves and mung bean sprouts, with heat from chili sambal. Amazingly fragrant, it recalls the flavours of Thai food yet still tastes very much Malay. Mine came from Misya’s Tom Yam at the Batu Buruk Food Centre. Not to be confused with the blue-tinged nasi kerabu, another local specialty which we didn't get to try this time.



Nasi Dagang – one of the trademark dishes of Terengganu and neighbouring Kelantan. Commonly eaten for breakfast, it is the local version of nasi lemak. While it is easy to notice the Thai influence on the cuisine of the region, this dish recalls the Middle-Eastern influence on local tastes. While its basic ingredients are truly SE Asian – a mix of Thai jasmine rice and glutinous rice, with a little coconut milk added – the presence of fenugreek seeds in the rice is an unusual twist, as this spice is virtually absent from all other Malay cuisine. While fenugreek is mostly associated with Indian cuisine, locals refer to it by its Arabic name, halba (rather than the Hindi methi), which is a telling indicator of its origin in Terengganu cuisine. Also containing shallots and shreds of ginger, the rice is flavourful enough to eat on its own, but it is usually accompanied by some kind of achar (lightly pickled vegetable) and a fish curry.
Nasi dagang is primarily a breakfast dish; waking up late on our last morning in Dungun, we drove to a few eateries desperately wanting a last taste of this local specialty, only to be told (in the nicest way possibl) that it was no longer breakfast time and they had run out. This was at 10:45am, mind you. Fortunately not every vendor holds to this principle.

The nasi dagang came from this little shop (below) at the food court at Pasar Payang (Kuala Terengganu's Central Market) which was quiet at lunchtime when we visited. It was run by a nice couple; the auntie sat nearby and watched with a smile as we ate and photographed our food, visibly getting a kick out of us enjoying her cooking.


Nasi Minyak – which we ordered from that same stall the nasi dagang, I wasn’t quite so impressed with this colourful dish, which means “oil rice” - it seems to be a Malaysian take on the pilaf of the Middle-East. The oil is meant to be clarified butter (another Arab legacy), but its flavour wasn’t discernable. The chicken curry that accompanied it was absolutely delicious however. The dominant taste was the particular way that Indonesians and Malays have with shallots and garlic, pounded and fried to impart a distinctively savoury flavour. Yet its thin dark sauce, redolent with coriander, cardamom, cumin and cloves, also evoked the flavours of Yemen or the Gulf States and was aromatic rather than fiery hot.





Laksam – the local variant of laksa. It uses an interesting variety of noodle, something like a broader kway teow noodle which has been rolled up and then sliced. These swim in a gravy of coconut milk, herbs and fish stock. A dish which has potential to be nice I’m sure, but the version we tried (at Pantai Batu Buruk) was underwhelming.





_______________________________


For more on food in Malaysia, try:

What dishes truly define Malaysian cuisine?

The Guide to Ordering Food in Malaysia

Sister's Char Kway Teow, Penang

Penang's Famous Mung Bean Cookies

Penang, Street Food Capital of Asia.

The Malaysian-Indian Food Experience

Addicted to Kuih

Roti Canai Terbang - The Way of the Flying Roti

Breakfast at Bakti Woodlands, Kuala Lumpur

Lina's Popiah, SS3, Petaling Jaya

Vegetarian Dim Sum at Nature's Recipe Cafe, Petaling Jaya

Salam from Malaysia

Cooking up a storm in Malaysia

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